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Inverts

You do not need a licence in QLD to keep ANY Australian insects privately!

Only Australian native inverts can be kept in Australia Exotic species cannot be imported for sale.

We stock captive bred and licence caught Bird eating spiders, scorpions, peads , land hermit crabs and stick insects.

All Australian scorpions and bird eating spiders are venomous, symptoms range from mild local pain to requiring medical treatment, we DO NOT recommend regular handling.

Available inverts:

Scorpions:

Flinders Range Scorpion (Urodacus elongatus)

S.A Desert Scorpion (Urodacus yaschenkoi)

SA Golden Desert Scorpions (Urodacus armatus)

Rainforest Scorpion (Liocheles s.p)

Marble Scorpion (Lychas mamoreus)

Buchar's scorpion (Lychas buchari)

Spider eating scorpion (Lychas Vescus)

Black Rock (Urodacus manicatus) VIC / QLD forms available

QLD Desert Scorpions (Urodacus macrurus) Large

W.A Sand Scorpions (Urodacus novaehollandiae) Large

Millipedes / Centipedes:

Far north QLD Giant millipede 15cm+

Baby Giant centipede

Giant blue centipede 15cm+

Bird eaters:

phlogius crassipes (sub adult)

Selenotholus sp. "glenelva"

Selenotholus "gemfields" (adult)

Other Inverts:

leafy Stick insects:

Goliath stick insects:

North Queensland Giant Burrowing Cockroaches:

Mantid sp. :

False Funnel Web Spiders

Funnel Web Spiders Hadronyche sp.

Land hermit crabs

Small / Medium

We have an ever changing range of complete set-ups from basic glass tanks to vivariums. We stock substrates as well as artificial hides/logs and plants that are safe for all inverts.

Scorpions:

Temperature range is best between 20C and 30C. Temperatures close to zero and up to 40C can be tolerated for short periods of time. Most scorpions will need heat in at least 25% of there enclosure, this can be done with the aid of heat tape / heat pads or reptile heat globes.

Humidity should be maintained around 60-90% for most commonly kept species with the higher end of the range needed to help with shedding. All scorpions must have access to damp and dry conditions in their enclosure, they will move depending on the needs. Deeper substrates can also aid in humidity regulation.

Scorpions are nocturnal but should still experience day and night light cycles, they must have hides or enough substrate for them to totally burry themselves in. Black lights can be used to view you’re scorpion but not used as a full time light, reptile heat emitting red bulbs or ceramic heat emitters are fine to use for night time heating.

Scorpions will feed on most other insects including there own kind , Their main diet in captivity should include crickets and wood roaches, they can eat as much as one cricket every few days to only once every few months depending on temperature/shedding cycles.

Different scorpions have different needs; we can explain set-ups, what species are best kept individually and all other special equipments with purchase and will add more information here in time.

Millipedes / Centipedes:

Temperature range the same as scorpions - 20C and 30C. They will need heating in at least 25% of there enclosure, this can be done with the aid of heat tape / heat pads or reptile heat globes.

Humidity should be maintained around 60-90% for most commonly kept species with the higher end of the range needed to help with shedding. millipedes / centipedes must have access to damp and dry conditions in their enclosure, they will move depending on the needs. Deeper substrates can also aid in humidity regulation of all species.

They are nocturnal but should still experience day and night light cycles, they must have hides or enough substrate for them to totally burry themselves in.

Millipedes and centipedes will feed on most other insects including there own kind , Their main diet in captivity should include crickets and wood roaches, they can eat as much as one cricket every few days to only once every few months depending on temperature/shedding cycles.

Bird eating spiders:

Temperature range - 25C and 30C. They will need heating in at least 25% of there enclosure, this can be done with the aid of heat tape / heat pads or reptile heat globes although under tank heating is best.

Humidity should be maintained around 70-90% as most bird eating spiders are found in the northern parts of Australia. Females will spend all their life ( up to and over 5-20 years depending on the spices) in a humid borrow , males will leave their borrow after 2 - 3 years to mate and usually die after mating.

Most species with the higher end of the range needed to help with shedding. They must have access to damp and dry conditions in their enclosure, they will move depending on the needs. Deeper substrates can also aid in humidity regulation of all species.

Bird eating spiders do not eat cockatiels - They are named "bird eating spiders" because a large specimen can over power a small ground dwelling "chick" or baby bird that has fallen out of an over hanging nest. Their natural diet consists of a large range of insects.

Land hermit crabs

The land hermit crab makes a wonderful pet. It is friendly, intelligent, odour free and very clean. This crab has evolved to live on land and uses an empty shell as a portable home, as well as for protection. Land hermit crabs are land animas and must not be kept in water.

Housing
Use an aquarium with a glass cover. Humidity is essential to the crab’s well being. The floor of the aquarium should be kept dry on one half and moist on the other it can be covered with sand or aquarium gravel as long as it’s fine enough for them to dig. A piece of driftwood or mangrove root will provide a great play ground as Land hermit crabs love to climb.

Heat
The land hermit crab is tropical and is best kept at about 30⁰C. Do not let the temperatures drop below 20⁰C. Installing a low wattage heat cord under the aquarium or desk lamp with a red or blue bulb above the aquarium provides heating. Make sure a thermometer is used to monitor temperature. And make sure humidity is in the high

80 – 90s

Water
Two bowls of water must be provided; one containing freshwater for drinking, the other containing seawater for bathing. Use one level teaspoon sea salt per 100 mls of fresh water. Ensure the water bowls are sturdy and cannot be tipped over. Change the water frequently to keep it clean.

Food
A range of foods can be offered including fish pellets, any cereal, bread, shredded coconut, apple, and other varieties of fruit. Only put in small quantities at a time to ensure it is fresh when eaten.

Extra Shells
The crab will climb out of its shell and "put on" a new one from time to time. Therefore, a few spare shells should be kept in the aquarium for this purpose. It is essential a slightly larger size one is available to the crab after it has molted.

Molting
Like other crabs, the land hermit crab needs to cast off its outer skeleton, usually twice a year. After it has moulted, the crab needs to be left alone for several weeks until it's new skeleton hardens.

Habits
The land hermit crab is somewhat nocturnal by nature and will sleep during most of the day. Low temperature and low humidity also sends it into its shell. Warm humid air and the warmth of your hand are usually sufficient to wake it up.

If well cared for these crabs will live for several decades. Most will only grow a few mm each molt.